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CONTENTS
10. How to spot a non reputable Agency or Talent Scout
11. What To Do If You Cannot Find a Modeling Agency To Represent You
APPENDIX
CREDITS
Editorial Assistance: Vern Edgar
Copyright 1996 by Karl Yuneli
Photographic modeling is an exciting, glamorous, and creative career that can also be financially rewarding. However, modeling is a competitive field. Sometimes people with patience and perseverance, rather than looks, are more successful. Rejections are part of the modeling profession, and should never be taken personally. Other than being genetically fortunate, there is usually no luck involved in becoming a successful model. It requires developing some basic skills, following some established business practices, and using common sense. The purpose of this Model Manual is to highlight the necessary skills and acceptable practices in modeling, as a help in guiding you toward a career.
Here are some modeling terms that you should be familiar with:
A MODEL RELEASE is a contract signed by the model. It gives permission to the photographer to use photographs taken at a particular sitting. If photographs are used without a release, or in a way different from what is stated in the release, then the model can sue for breach of contract.
A PHOTOGRAPHER RELEASE is a contract signed by the photographer. It gives permission to the model to use the photographs taken during a particular sitting.
A HEAD SHOT OR CLOSE-UP is a photograph of the head and shoulders.
RUNWAY MODELING is fashion show modeling. Models work on a long, raised platform about four feet wide.
A COMPOSITE is the model's business card. It
is also called the ZED card. Currently, postcard-size is popular. One side
contains a head shot, the other side several small photographs together
with information about the model.
A CONTACT SHEET, also called PROOFS, is a
contact print of negatives on 8-by-10-inch photographic paper. These images
are the same size as the negatives, and require use of a magnification
glass to evaluate them.
A DRESSER is a person who makes sure that clothes fit the model properly, and pins them if necessary.
A FITTING is when the clothes are fitted to the model. Usually, a model gets paid less than the normal modeling rate for this time.
A FREELANCE MODEL is a self-promoting model, one not associated with a modeling agency.
A HEAD SHEET is a poster displaying head shots and information about models represented by a modeling agency.
A PORTFOLIO OR MODEL'S BOOK is a collection of photographs or tear sheets demonstrating a model's abilities in front of the camera.
A TEAR SHEET is a page containing the model's image removed from a publication. This sheet is usually added to the model's portfolio.
A RESUME is a sheet listing a model's education, experience, and vital statistics. The resume is usually attached to an 8X10 or a composite.
An 8X10 OR GLOSSY is an 8-by-10-inch photograph of the model, usually a head shot.
A TEST SHOOT is when a model and photographer work together on a new idea or on their portfolios. No fees other than sharing film-and-developing expenses are involved. Model and Photographer Releases should be signed before the session.
A GO-SEE is a model's appointment to see a potential client.
A CATTLE CALL is similar to a Go-see, but involves many models being interviewed by a client.
HIGH FASHION MODELING
High Fashion Modeling is the modeling of designer
clothes, either at fashion shows or in publications. Sometimes, the modeling
of jewelry and cosmetics falls into this category. The models are hired
through agencies, and the pay rate is the highest among all modeling jobs.
Of course, the advertisers' expectations also run high. The agencies choose
models with a proven track record for this type of modeling.
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR HIGH FASHION MODELING
Usually, modeling agencies have the following
requirements for new models:
EDITORIAL MODELING
Editorial Modeling is similar to High Fashion
Modeling, except that the model works for a particular publication. The
readers of that publication make up a target audience for the photographs
taken. Images in the non-advertisement sections of the fashion magazines,
such as Glamour, Vogue, or Seventeen, are good examples of this type of
modeling. The physical requirements are less stringent than for High Fashion
Modeling, but the pay rate is considerably less. Many more models are needed
for Editorial Modeling, and Editorial experience opens the door to High
Fashion Modeling.
GLAMOUR MODELING
Attractive women have always been featured
by manufacturers in their advertisements, in order to draw attention to
their products. Such advertisements often contain photographs, seen in
magazines, newspapers, posters, billboards, calendars, or TV commercials.
More books are written about glamour photography than any other type of
photography, and many models are used in these books as well, to demonstrate
different photographic techniques. There are no established physical requirements
for Glamour Models, other than the model must be beautiful and/or sexy
in the photographs. An elegant lady in an evening dress, the eye-catching
face of a beautiful girl, a shapely woman in casual dress, swim-wear, or
lingerie can all become subjects for glamour photography. Some of the nude
photography also falls into this category. Pay rates can be very good for
Glamour Modeling. Usually, the pay rate doubles for posing in lingerie
or in the nude.
Some Figure and Art Modeling, typically artistic
nude photography, is included in the Glamour Modeling category.
CATALOGUE MODELING
While some Catalogue Modeling involves posing
with products, most is done wearing store-brand clothes. Even though pay
rates are considerably lower than for High Fashion Modeling, it is desirable
to get booked as a Catalogue Model, because hours are consistent and repeat-modeling
opportunities are high. Look through some mail-order catalogues to get
an idea of what is involved. Physical requirements are not stringent. Usually,
the side of the clothing not shown on the photograph will have many alteration
pins attached, and some models find this inconvenient.
RUNWAY MODELING
Runway Models must have measurements that
fit an actual standard clothing size. There are many different kinds of
Runway Modeling. Many modeling agencies specialize in Runway Modeling bookings.
Two of the opportunities for Runway Models are:
Fashion Shows, run by a store or by a designer in a store, mall, hotel, or club.
SPECIALTY MODELING
Models with long fingers and well-manicured
nails have opportunities to display their hands demonstrating domestic
products. For men, a demand exists for the husky, masculine hand, or alternatively
the more elegant, long-fingered hand. Women with well-proportioned feet
are needed for shoe advertisements. Advertisements of stockings, pantyhose,
and razors require women with nicely-shaped legs. Hair products call for
female and male models with good hair. There are numerous other Specialty
Modeling opportunities. However, you should not start by concentrating
solely on Specialty Modeling. Just prepare a standard portfolio, including
a few photographs that emphasize areas of your body you might use for Specialty
Modeling. Most agencies pick models for Specialty work from their regular
modeling pool.
CHARACTER MODELING
Some jobs require models with an everyday
look, such as a truck driver, mechanic, grocery clerk, schoolteacher, cleaning
person, appliance repair person, and so on.
CONVENTION AND TRADE SHOW MODELING
These shows use many female models to demonstrate
products and answer questions.
MODELING IN TV COMMERCIALS
TV Commercials offer a growing area of opportunities
to models with some acting background. Many modeling agencies now include
a TV Commercial Department.
MODELING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS
Like models, photographers need a portfolio,
which they must constantly update as they develop new skills or keep up
with fashion trends. Occasionally, professional photographers agree to
do test shoots of established models with good portfolios. Even though
there is no pay involved, these test shoots can lead to well-paying opportunities
for the model. Advanced amateur photographers are usually willing to pay
an experienced model, for helping them to improve their skills.
OTHER OPPORTUNITIES FOR MODELS
There are opportunities for the oversized
or undersized model. The demand for ordinary-looking models with whom a
majority of the audience can identify continues to increase. Many other
opportunities exist that might fall into one of the modeling categories
mentioned above.
MAKEUP
The makeup that a model uses for her photographic
assignments is different from what she uses every day. In photography,
the skin must be blemish-free and smooth, and it must have a matt surface
to prevent unwanted highlights. The eyes and mouth should have a fine definition.
Otherwise, the fine details of the face will be lost in a magazine image.
The loss of detail is due in part to strong photographic lighting, which
penetrates the makeup layer, and in part to preparation of photographs
for mass printing.
Black and White (B&W) photography has a special set of problems. For example, since B&W film is less sensitive to the color red, with normal makeup the red areas appear too dark in the print. To overcome this problem, a purple color with lots of blue in it is used on the cheeks and lips (newer films record the tones of different colors more realistically).
In general, photographic makeup is heavier than regular makeup. For head shots the makeup can be lighter, because larger image-size holds up better during the magazine printing process.
Faces come in many different shapes. Photographic makeup should maximize the natural beauty of your face while minimizing any facial irregularities. The ideal photogenic face is oval in shape. If the face is too round, a darker shade of makeup is used on the front edges to simulate shadows, making the face appear more oval. If the face is too narrow, a lighter shade is used on the sides, with the same result. The photographer can also compensate for facial irregularities, by using various lighting arrangements.
In many modeling jobs makeup artists are not available. Therefore, you must learn to apply your own makeup. When you apply for modeling jobs, questions will be asked to determine your skills in applying makeup.
The best way to learn more about applying photographic
makeup is to visit local "beauty supply" stores and ask for suggestions.
Sometimes the staff will do a free evaluation of your face, and recommend
the most suitable makeup styles for you. Look through the yellow pages
of the phone book to find locations of local beauty supply stores. After
you have completed your research, build a photographic-makeup kit and start
practicing the techniques. Most young women are already familiar with basic
makeup techniques, so it usually takes only a few days to complete the
research, build a kit, and learn how to apply the makeup. By the way, children
and men also use makeup during photographic modeling assignments. The makeup
kit that you build will go with you to every interview and assignment.
(Please note that i'm not an expert on makeup
or responses of film, to my best knowledge the statements above are correct,
but confirm it through polaroid or test shoots)
HAIR
Long hair, at least to the shoulders, is best
for female models. No matter what length your hair is, start with a good
basic style that allows for versatility. Which hairstylist you choose is
critical. Pick a good one based on your own experience, or ask for recommendations
from your friends or relatives.
After you have your hair styled, practice changing the look of it. Remember that every time you change your outfit during a modeling session, the look of your hair should also change. Some of the variations are as simple as adding a scarf or flower, or fashioning a wind-blown or a wet look. Most photographic modeling jobs include a hairstylist, to assist you in changing the look of your hair.
POSING
Learning to pose is a career-long process.
No matter how much experience you have, every time you work in front of
a camera, you will discover some new way of showing your creativity.
As a new model, you must first learn to relax
in front of the camera, so that you can begin to develop creatively.
Here are two suggestions on how to enhance your posing skills:
Go through some fashion magazines and mail order catalogues. Pick 10 photos that you like, cut them out, and paste them into a scrap book, in pairs. Step in front of a mirror, and imitate the pose in one photo of the first pair. Then slowly transform your pose to imitate the pose in the other photo of the pair. Repeat this exercise with the rest of the photos.